Don’t get mad, get even.

Okay well I figured out how to get those silly spring compressors off. I’ve built the two struts, tried torquing them to correct spec, and now they’re in the car. I have the strut brace in as well but I’ve managed to fricking lose two of the 3 washers on the passenger side strut tower. I’ll try finding it tomorrow morning when I can actually see. Swaybar and endlinks are also in, well one endlink is in at this moment.

I decided to stop today when I couldn’t find any more of my tools due to the darkness and just being tired.

Almost there! Luckily I don’t need to drive back this weekend since my roommate will be driving. That’s another week for me to work on the car which is nice, since rushing things only causes problems.

So I got the spring compressor tools off without getting injured. Future note: clamp only 4-5 (ideally) coils at a time with harbor freight 12″ spring compressors. This is the only way to get them off the spring after you’ve taken it off the strut. It helps to stagger the compressor tools, as far as I know this method is safe because the horizontal displacement between the spring and compressor tools is still very minimal. Clamp to the coils closest to the bottom or top.

So that problem is fixed, but now my battery is pretty much dead. Time to warranty…

I took out the front suspension assembly, short of the control arms. Despite the fact that they have 130k miles on them, the bushings and ball joint are in fantastic shape (0 play in all directions and no cracks in the bushings) so I will not be replacing them any time soon.

Couple of notes that I’d like to mention - It’s pretty crucial to pick up a set of hex socket bits because it’s hard as hell to break off the hex bolts that the calipers slide on. Also buy long spring compressor tools (longer than 12″ at least) because you won’t be able to take the compressor tools off later - which is where I am stuck right now.

Despite the numerous write ups I’ve seen not using this tool, having the strut spanner tool (sold by IPD) will make taking apart those struts a zillion times easier. I ended up using the spanner tool key for a dewalt angle grinder, it was a ghetto solution but it worked.

Also another note, on the drivers side when putting the car on jack stands, put a wood block under the unibody and put the jack as close to the subframe mount as possible without blocking the bolts. I put it further back (there was evidence of the car being lifted up in this area in the past) and ended up crushing in this part of the unibody, which is I think a crumple zone piece, so while it doesn’t cause any problems with cabin intrusion or chassis rigidity, it looks ugly.

I also realized I took off the caliper brackets…. now I need to ask a friend to drive me to a wheel shop to get new tires instead of going myself.

Rear suspension is all assembled, same for the brakes and all that fancy stuff. The car sits significantly lower now. Oh and I also trimmed the exhaust pipe so now it sits under the bumper, almost flush with the lip. Much better looking.

Next is the front assembly! Aiming to finish this week because I need the car to get home next weekend. If not well, then I’ll need to take the train again.